research in fashion

When do fashion begin and what are the characteristics of fashion? Some days ago I was given the opportunity to discuss those interesting questions with Ulrika Berglund, researcher in modevetenskap (science of fashion) at the University of Stockholm. Her research concerns the Swedish fashion between the years 1930 and 1950 and I contacted her because I needed an expert’s eye on the books I have which are filled with drawings of dresses from around 1940.


Ulrika Berglund, researcher at the University of Stockholm

I have written about the great gift I recieved from designer Camilla Thulin – books with drawings of dresses, orders made by women probably in Stockholm from a tailor.
I now know that the tailor is Hildi Moberg at the firm Moberg Modeller. A relative contacted me after reading my blog, an extraordinarly luck!
Ulrika Berglund was fascinated by the books, they are very rare she told me because such a material is seldom saved.
The Swedish fashion is often spoken about as a product of the 1960’s when designers like Majong and Katia of Sweden became known worldwide. Tailormade clothings before those years have been seen merely as copies of French haute couture. Ulrika Berglund is strongly questioning that opinion – the Swedish fashion scene cannot be blank before 1960. Of course the impact from the fashion scene in Paris was great but not entierly something that the tailors just copied.
Wonderful words! I see the models in the books from Hildi Moberg as unique designer outfits. They are being carefully drawn, with exquisit details.
My next step is to learn more about the firm Moberg Modeller.

a stylish spring

One of the most stylish accessoire is a lapel flower, the suit looks a lot more classy when wearing a carnation on the collar. I have crocheted a bunch of eternally flourishing flowers using the Swedish linen yarn, Kalinka, in white and redish pink.

carnation by picot by Torhild

carnation by picot by Torhild

Four of the flowers I have sent to singers and actors in Sweden who are important for the cultural climate. Two of them are the actors Rikard Wolff and Simon J Berger. I hope you will recieve them!

carnation by picot by Torhild

Carnation by picot by Torhild

carnation by picot by Torhild

fashion because of shortage


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During the World War ll people had to learn how to handle shortage. Tomorrow opens a new exhibition at the Imperial War Museum in London that shows how fashion survived and even flourished during the rules of rationing. The shortage forced people to be creative — to mend, alter and use old fabric to new clothes. The label CC41 was created and today clothes tagged with the label are very sought-after.

Imperial War Museum

Luckely I visit London next month and of course this exhibition!

I believe we can learn a lot from history — how can we be more careful with our assets today?
I do not want to idealize that horrible, hard and tough period in history and I often find myself in a moral dilemma. Is it right to seek inspiration from a time filled with horror?


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